{"id":43175,"date":"2018-04-05T12:08:35","date_gmt":"2018-04-05T19:08:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/world.edu\/?p=43175"},"modified":"2018-04-05T12:08:35","modified_gmt":"2018-04-05T19:08:35","slug":"clothes-do-not-make-the-woman-what-female-academics-wear-is-subject-to-constant-scrutiny","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/world.edu\/clothes-do-not-make-the-woman-what-female-academics-wear-is-subject-to-constant-scrutiny\/","title":{"rendered":"Clothes do not make the woman: what female academics wear is subject to constant scrutiny"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/p>\n

The grand orator at today\u2019s graduation couldn\u2019t be bothered to take out her facial piercings! Gross! What a slob!\u201d<\/p>\n

This tweet, written last November, was clearly designed to be offensive, and it hit home, blindsiding me and briefly knocking my confidence.<\/p>\n

I had gone for the role as public orator because it troubled me that it was still possible to sit through a graduation ceremony without hearing a woman say much beyond reading out the list of graduands\u2019 names. Writing the address is hard, time-consuming work, so a spiteful, grammatically dubious criticism of my appearance did not exactly hit the level of appreciation I had been hoping for.<\/p>\n

A couple of months later, my local newspaper shared a picture of me at a book launch. This motivated another tweeter to ask: \u201cWhy has she got those stupid studs on her face?\u201d<\/p>\n

There are several conclusions I could draw from these two incidents. First, both tweets, bizarrely, were posted by local men called David. So, it could be that all men called David living in Chester find facial piercings \u201cgross\u201d or \u201cstupid\u201d.<\/p>\n

Second, and rather more plausibly, my role as an academic was seen by some as being somehow fundamentally at odds with my appearance. The ad\u00a0feminam<\/i> nature of the tweets served as a reminder that women who occupy public spaces will inevitably attract comments based not on what they do but rather on how they look while they do it.<\/p>\n

This wasn\u2019t news to me. If you write a book called The\u00a0Vagina: A\u00a0Literary and Cultural History<\/a><\/em>, you quickly discover more than you ever imagined about being a woman in the public sphere. But it still rankled.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s an identifiably male body that\u2019s regarded as the normative one in most professional fields: he is \u201can academic\u201d; she is \u201ca female academic\u201d. As Francesca Stavrakopoulou, professor of Hebrew Bible and ancient religion at the University of Exeter, wrote in The\u00a0Guardian<\/em><\/a> in 2014: \u201cFemale academics find their appearance scrutinised in ways a male colleague would rarely encounter.\u201d A male lecturer is permitted to wear jeans, hoodies and T-shirts, or a \u201cfraying tweed jacket, accidentally accessorised with a splodge of egg yolk down their tie\u201d. But \u201ca female academic who looks similarly casual, or scruffy, or unkempt, risks becoming the target of a range of sexist assumptions\u201d.<\/p>\n

Of course, I\u2019ll probably never know whether the Davids of Chester would take to Twitter to rail similarly against a pierced male colleague. But at graduation ceremonies, the norm is particularly visible. For women, the unassuming safety pin becomes vitally important on those days where hoods disappear up over shoulders or slope off down arms because they are designed either to be held in place by that weirdly pointless and frankly phallic signifier of formality, the tie, or to be attached to a shirt button. I rarely have buttons on my graduation-day outfits, and I certainly never wear a tie.<\/p>\n

My Davids were prey to the \u201chalo effect\u201d, cognitively constructing me as the sum of my parts and making judgements based on little more than unconscious bias. Groundless inferences are made in the blink of an eye (if she\u2019s fat she must be lazy; if she wears heels she must be slutty; if she\u2019s pierced in the \u201cwrong\u201d places she must be a slob), and the female lecturer\u2019s body becomes home to numerous intersecting assumptions.<\/p>\n

Academia complicates the appearance\/gender\/professionalism matrix because it has traditionally been a radical, non-conforming space. To quote Stavrakopoulou again, \u201cthe message is the same: unless women dress modestly and conservatively, they look out of place in academia, because fundamentally, they don\u2019t have the right bodies to be academic authorities\u201d.<\/p>\n

The \u201cwrong\u201d body isn\u2019t only about clothing or physical modifications, however. The more female academics I spoke to, the more it became painfully clear that the criticisms of their appearance that they had heard voiced by colleagues, students or members of the public were imbricated with wider assumptions about race and ethnicity, sexuality or perceived physical fitness or ability.
\n

\"\"

Tailors Dummy<\/p><\/div><\/p>\n

Business Insider\u00a0<\/i>is a website that I end up on only when I follow the white rabbit of connected links from an altogether different website, where the lure of an article promising to make me more productive in just five minutes has proved too strong to resist.<\/p>\n

A headline that caught my eye recently was: \u201cPeople with an Offbeat Sense of Fashion Get More Respect<\/a>\u201d. The report focused on a Harvard Business School study that found that in an experiment in which students were asked to judge the status and competence of \u201ca bearded professor wearing a T-shirt\u201d compared with \u201ca clean shaven one wearing a tie\u201d, the bearded one won.<\/p>\n

I clicked from this piece to view the article \u201c10\u00a0Essential Rules of How to Dress for Work<\/a>\u201d, and despondency began to set in. Apparently, I should \u201cconsider suit separates\u2026the new godsend, as they make buying off the rack easier than ever\u201d. I\u2019m happy to consider them as long as I never, ever have to wear them.<\/p>\n

I should also \u201cwear a low profile watch\u201d. The watch that I wear is a recently acquired Fitbit; I\u2019m incapable of telling the time on its kinetic face without waving my left arm around with all the understatement of someone directing a fighter jet on an aircraft carrier\u2019s flight deck.<\/p>\n

This feeling that academia\u2019s rules of \u201cprofessional dress\u201d are both gendered and unlike those that apply in most other professions is borne out by the artist Jorge Cham, who, in his \u201cPHD: Piled Higher and Deeper\u201d series satirising university life, published a cartoon in 2011 called \u201cAcademic Dress Code<\/a>\u201d. The academic moves on a chart from \u201cwhite tie\u201d through \u201cwizard robes\u201d to a career destination of \u201chobo-chic\u201d. The implication is that \u201chobo-chic\u201d is a mark of success, but primarily for the male academic (of Cham\u2019s six figures, only one appears to be a woman, dressed in a pyjama \u201cworksuit\u201d).<\/p>\n

Reading the often brilliant work of the late Sunday Times<\/i> columnist A. A. Gill reminds me of watching footage of Thierry Henry\u2019s famous solo goal against Tottenham in 2002. The goal was sublime, and I can admire the skill, but the admiration is compounded by a Spurs fan\u2019s rage. And it was rage I felt when Gill directed an openly misogynist attack at Mary Beard in 2012, concluding that she \u201cshould be kept away from cameras altogether\u201d. But Beard, professor of Classics at the University of Cambridge, knows all about the different standards that female academics who dare to put themselves on a public platform encounter \u2013 whether that\u2019s in front of a BBC Question Time<\/i> audience of 2 million viewers or a seminar of a dozen people.<\/p>\n

In her most recent book, Women & Power: A\u00a0Manifesto<\/i>, Beard writes that the goddess Athena was, according to the ancient Greeks, \u201cnot a woman at all. For a start, she\u2019s dressed as a warrior, when fighting was exclusively male work.\u201d I recently asked Beard for her thoughts on how women in academia are judged on their appearance. \u201cAfter I had been attacked by A. A. Gill for looking \u2018sub-optimal\u2019 in my TV programmes,\u201d she told me, \u201cI bumped into a colleague from maths. He said he couldn\u2019t understand what Gill was going on about. In his eyes I just looked \u2018normal\u2019.\u201d<\/p>\n

But what does this desire to celebrate \u201cnormality\u201d mean, especially in academia, a profession where exceptionality is the gold standard in almost all other respects? Sharon Mavin, director of Newcastle University Business School and an expert on gendered media representations of female professionals, argues that \u201cwomen remain extra visible as women and invisible as professionals\/managers\/leaders\u201d. Hence, \u201ctheir authenticity is judged through the lens of gender, as women and as bodies against a male \u2018norm\u2019.\u201d<\/p>\n

Isabel Davis, reader in medieval literature and culture at Birkbeck, University of London, recalls a male colleague\u2019s comments on a female interview candidate. The woman had worn a suit. \u201cI remember him saying: \u2018She looks like a very good<\/i> girl.\u2019 He meant it as a bad thing.\u201d The comment stuck in Davis\u2019 mind. \u201cThe subtext\u201d, she told me, \u201cwas that the candidate would be a good administrator and teacher but that she would have uninteresting research, as if the rest of us are all unrelentingly radical.\u201d<\/p>\n

A female academic working in Scotland, who prefers to remain anonymous, tells me that disability is also perceived, like femininity, to be another unruly deviation from the professional norm. Such ableism can therefore compound the effects of sexism. Like mine, her bad experience occurred at a graduation ceremony. A chronic illness means that she is often reliant on a crutch, and she recalls how, as she lined up with her colleagues to process up a short flight of steps to the platform, she was told to leave her crutch behind.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhen I said \u2018I can\u2019t do that: I need it to get up the steps\u2019, I was told that I should have told them [that] beforehand, or brought something more in keeping with academic dress,\u201d she tells me. \u201cAt the same time, a male colleague using a wooden walking stick was not challenged.\u201d<\/p>\n

So many of the women I spoke to report having been taken to one side by well-meaning colleagues and advised to \u201ctone down\u201d their clothing in order to be taken seriously. And these veiled \u2013 and sometimes overt \u2013 critiques by no means come only from men. In the experience of my Scottish interviewee, \u201cwomen will criticise other women for looking too smart and \u2018professional\u2019, particularly if they opt to wear heavy make-up and\/or high-heeled shoes. This is seen to be pandering to \u2018the male gaze\u2019.\u201d<\/p>\n

Charlotte Dann, lecturer in psychology at the University of Northampton, dresses according to context. \u201cAt work, I dress \u2018professionally\u2019 \u2013 shirt and trousers mostly. In my leisure time, I\u2019m very casual in jeans and T-shirt.\u201d This discontinuity between self-as-lecturer and self-outside-academia is perhaps particularly striking in Dann\u2019s case because she wrote her PhD on constructions of tattooed women\u2019s bodies and is heavily tattooed herself.<\/p>\n

Her \u201cprofessional\u201d dress is a deliberate strategy. \u201cNow that I do have more visible tattoos, I like to make a point of dressing stereotypically \u2018professionally\u2019 as a show that my modifications do not have an impact on my capacity to work,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

Cultural assumptions about body modifications are not specifically gendered, of course: a tattooed or pierced man can receive similar opprobrium. Equally, it is clear that we have come a long way since academics accessorised only with leather elbow patches or dandruff (this isn\u2019t a clich\u00e9 so much as a snapshot of my alma mater in the 1990s). Dann recalls a particular outreach session on non-verbal communication that she ran for A\u2011level students at which the pupils\u2019 (male) teacher \u201crolled up his sleeves to show his tattoos. He said he couldn\u2019t do that at the college as it wasn\u2019t allowed, but felt comfortable doing so in our university space.\u201d<\/p>\n

Birkbeck\u2019s Davis describes having outfits specifically for student-facing activities because, as she puts it: \u201cClothes, for me, are about having no chinks in my armour. I want to look like the students expect. And then, hopefully, with my authority reinforced, we can all get on to something else.\u201d She also tells me that she would \u201cnever wear jeans. I notice that my male colleagues can do so without a thought [but] jeans, for me, read more as \u2018student\u2019 than \u2018lecturer\u2019 \u201d.<\/p>\n

I thought I could resist such self-surveillance, but I now don\u2019t wear my ripped jeans or rock band T-shirts on teaching or meeting days, and I\u2019m rather disappointed in myself for this. I can\u2019t identify exactly when my position on this shifted, or how much men called David are to blame for it. Being nearer to 50 than 40, however, I\u2019m irritated that spurious \u201crules\u201d about appearance have come into play almost without my noticing.<\/p>\n

My piercings and tattoos are mementos of former selves, but they are also, importantly, part of who I am now. Like Dann, I too \u201csee my own modifications as a form of resistance against traditional\/stereotypical expectations\u201d. And if the Davids don\u2019t like or understand that \u201cform of resistance\u201d, perhaps they\u2019ve simply misunderstood what a university is for. l<\/p>\n

Author Bio: <\/strong>Emma Rees is professor of literature and gender studies at the University of Chester, where she is director of the Institute of Gender Studies.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The grand orator at today\u2019s graduation couldn\u2019t be bothered to take out her facial piercings! Gross! What a slob!\u201d This tweet, written last November, was clearly designed to be offensive, and it hit home, blindsiding me and briefly knocking my confidence. I had gone for the role as public orator because it troubled me that […]\n… learn more→<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"author":33,"featured_media":43176,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[29],"tags":[185124],"coauthors":[11733],"class_list":["post-43175","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-higher-education","tag-appearance-scrutiny"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nClothes do not make the woman: what female academics wear is subject to constant scrutiny - World leading higher education information and services<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/world.edu\/clothes-do-not-make-the-woman-what-female-academics-wear-is-subject-to-constant-scrutiny\/\" class=\"yoast-seo-meta-tag\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" class=\"yoast-seo-meta-tag\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" class=\"yoast-seo-meta-tag\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Clothes do not make the woman: what female academics wear is subject to constant scrutiny - World leading higher education information and services\" class=\"yoast-seo-meta-tag\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The grand orator at today\u2019s graduation couldn\u2019t be bothered to take out her facial piercings! 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